superclásico

'For a century, one duel has halved Buenos Aires. The God of one half is the Devil of the other"

- Eduardo Galeano

Occasionally in life, the stars align. Shining specks in the night sky meet, forming patterns that are romanticised from the safety of planet Earth. Get a little closer - approximately 4.24 light-years closer - and a star bares its teeth. Face a ball of furiously burning gases, and Twinkle Twinkle Little Star suddenly loses a touch of its charm.

Back down to Earth, in Buenos Aires, Argentina, two more combustible entities are set to collide. The constellation of the Copa Libertadores, South America's top club competition, has guided bitter rivals Boca Juniors and River Plate towards a stellar collision that will dwarf the magnitude of cosmic activity.

It's been 58 years since the inauguration of the Copa Libertadores, yet the first that has graced a final between Boca Juniors and River Plate. If fate wasn't clear enough, this year's final is the last that will be played over two-legs at each team's home ground, meaning that both Boca and River will take their turn to welcome their arch nemesis to their own, spitting cauldron.

The derby, the superclásico, is widely considered to be the greatest in world football, and is regularly dubbed the holy grail of the sport's 'bucket list'; attend a superclásico and you've done it all. Take a stroll through Buenos Aires and the presence of the two teams is unavoidable. Whether it be the ragged replica shirts, the branded shop fronts or the murals of Riquelme and Aimar, the city breathes from two lungs, one blue and yellow, the other red and white.

From the safe distance of eleven thousand kilometres, British football fans finally glance towards the barrios of Buenos Aires. From the prudence and comfort of the Premier League, tonight's superclásico represents an opportunity to peer out of the curtains at the noisy neighbour.

For all of its flaws, of which there are many, South American football represents everything that modern European football doesn't.

Visit an Argentinean stadium and witness the live football experience in its rawest form. Exhausted infrastructure wethers over 90 minutes of seismic shaking from fans that sing before they breathe. Within the haven of their home stands, supporters unleash the frustrations accumulated by the restrictions of the outside world, with no repercussions to strike them down. Following a team in Argentina is more than just a hobby, it's a religious experience, exemplified by the omnipotent portrayal of Diego Maradona in the barrio of La Boca.

In the case of this match, football transcends religion. A group of 35 Hasidic Jewish Boca fans have travelled to Barcelona in order to be able to watch the game outside of Sabbath hours, which normally prohibits them from watching television. And this is just the start...

There will be a bespoke, calm commentary of the game so that fans with heart conditions can enjoy the game without the risk of cardiac arrest. Zenit midfielder Leandro Paredes has been accused of getting himself purposely sent off so that he can attend the game. A Boca fan burnt down the house of a River-supporting friend after a disagreement over the match. Never has the phrase 'more than just a game' been so fitting.

So much is this the case that, according to journalist Rupert Fryer, this is not a game that Argentina wants. The fever of a superclásico hits the country like an epidemic, with everyday responsibilities shunted to insignificance. For the team that wins, endless celebrations await. For the team that loses, endless despair. The winner will still goad the loser with songs about this final in 100 years time. Never has there been so much on the line for the two dominant tribes of Buenos Aires, it's history-defining.

So strap yourselves in, light a pyrotechnic flare and take a moment to feel for anyone experiencing this match as a fan of either team. Win, lose or draw, La Bombonera will be dripping with blue and yellow blood, sweat and tears of La 12 (Boca's fanbase) before the bout engages in another 90 rounds across town at River's Monumental. After 58 years of waiting the stars have aligned, just wait for the boom.

UPDATE: At the time of speaking, the heavens are fighting back. Torrential rain pounded La Bombonera into submission, as the game was postponed until Sunday night. A warning from above? We shall see.

My own Argentinean football adventures

San Lorenzo v Hurucan
Boca Juniors v Rosario Central

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